Jojoba and the skin: biocompatibility with sebum, regeneration and care

Jojoba and the skin: biocompatibility with sebum, regeneration support and role in modern care

Wound healing is a complex process, requiring the coordination of inflammatory, proliferative, and tissue remodeling phases. Phytotherapy is increasingly seeking natural substances that can support these stages without side effects. Jojoba wax (sometimes called oil) obtained from the seeds of Simmondsia chinensis is unique – its chemical structure resembles human sebum, making it well-tolerated by the skin. However, it's worth examining what scientific research says about its effects on wound healing and whether the product offered by AromaPremium can be used for this purpose.

What is liquid jojoba wax?

Liquid jojoba wax consists primarily of esters of long-chain fatty acids and alcohols (wax esters). This is a unique characteristic, as most vegetable oils are composed of triglycerides. This structure gives jojoba wax:

• very good oxidation stability,
• low volatility,
• viscosity and formation of a semi-occlusive film on the skin.

The AromaPremium store offers 100% pure and natural oil, unrefined, cold-pressed and organic. Contains a high content of eicosenoic acid (C20:1) – 66.5% These values ​​indicate that the product maintains a natural lipid profile similar to that of jojoba wax studied in the literature.

2011 In Vitro Study – Mechanisms in Skin Cells

The first comprehensive study on wound healing was conducted in 2011 on skin cells (HaCaT keratinocytes and fibroblasts) . Scientists assessed:

• cytotoxicity – jojoba wax turned out to be non-toxic to the tested cells ,
• acceleration of cell migration and proliferation – in the "scratch assay" tests it accelerated the closing of the "wound" on the plate ,
• signaling mechanisms – the action depended on the presence of calcium ions (Ca²⁺) and the activation of the PI3K-Akt-mTOR pathway and p38 and ERK1/2 kinases ,
• type I collagen synthesis – wax stimulated fibroblasts to produce collagen, but did not increase the secretion of metalloproteinases MMP-2 and MMP-9 .

The authors concluded that the in vitro data suggest the potential of jojoba wax in wound healing, but indicated the need for in vivo and clinical studies. It's worth emphasizing that this study only included cell cultures—it doesn't demonstrate efficacy in humans.

New research (2024–2025) – advances in knowledge

Ex vivo study on human skin (2024)

In 2024, a study published in the journal Frontiers in Pharmacology evaluated the effects of various jojoba wax formulations on ex vivo human skin biopsies. The authors demonstrated that topical application of the wax:

• reduced the secretion of proinflammatory cytokines (IL-6, IL-8, TNF-α) by approximately 30% ,
• significantly increased mRNA and protein levels of type III collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis ,
• the anti-inflammatory effect was similar to that of dexamethasone; in the presence of a small amount of emulsifier the effect was intensified .

This study confirms the potential dermocosmetic benefits of jojoba wax in reducing inflammation and stimulating extracellular matrix components. However, it still involves an ex vivo model, not live patients.

In vivo study in rats (2024)

Another team of researchers conducted a preclinical study in rats with surgical wounds and wounds whose healing was delayed by a glucocorticoid (dexamethasone). The results showed that applying 0.5 ml of jojoba wax topically to the wound twice daily:

• accelerated wound contraction – complete closure occurred in 12 days in the jojoba group compared to 15 days in the control animals ,
• increased the expression of collagen, VEGF, PDGF and ERK kinase in wound tissues ,
• Histopathology showed that in the wounds treated with jojoba, more mature granulation tissue was formed with greater epithelial growth. .

These data suggest a real effect of jojoba wax on the healing process in an animal model, but clinical trials are needed to translate them to humans.

Nano‑emulgel with tea tree and jojoba oils (2025)

In 2025, a study was published on a nano-emulgel containing tea tree oil and jojoba wax. The formula demonstrated antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial effects , and accelerated the healing of burn wounds in rats. The study group observed, among other things:

• reduction of markers of oxidative stress (MDA) and inflammation (TNF-α, IL-1β) ,
• greater collagen deposition and faster epithelialization compared to the control group .

However, the preparation is a complex mixture, so it is difficult to separate the effects of jojoba from the tea tree oil and the nanocarrier.

Is jojoba oil from AromaPremium suitable for supporting wound healing?

The AromaPremium product description indicates that the oil offered is unrefined, cold-pressed, organic jojoba wax from Panama Quality parameters include high eicosenoic acid content, no allergens, GMOs, or irritants. This composition corresponds to the profile of the wax studied in the cited scientific papers, meaning that the aromapremium raw material is most likely chemically similar to the samples used in the studies.

However, there are several important points to consider:

• Evidence Level: Research to date is largely based on cell and animal experiments. There are no well-designed human clinical trials to support the effectiveness of jojoba wax in wound healing.
• Product Intended Use: AromaPremium oil is sold as a cosmetic ingredient. The manufacturer does not claim any medicinal properties; the description provides general information about origin and purity, not medical indications.
• Safety: in the literature, jojoba wax is considered a well-tolerated raw material, not showing cytotoxicity at the tested concentrations It is used as a cosmetic ingredient for dry and irritated skin. However, caution should be exercised when applying to open or infected wounds and a doctor should be consulted. Animal studies reported sterile conditions were used; self-application of bottled oil may increase the risk of infection if hygiene practices are not followed.
• Possible practical applications: Jojoba, thanks to its occlusive properties, limits transepidermal water loss and supports the skin barrier, making it a popular ingredient in moisturizing cosmetics. Based on available research, adding pure jojoba wax to skincare products may promote epidermal regeneration and soothe inflammation , but it should not be considered a wound treatment.

Jojoba Oil Uses – What Do Cosmetic Research and Practice Say?

Dissolving blackheads and milia

Scientific literature indicates that liquid jojoba wax (technically a wax, not an oil) can penetrate hair follicles, dissolve sebum plugs, and facilitate the removal of blackheads. A phytopharmacological review confirms that, thanks to its wax ester structure, jojoba oil dissolves accumulated sebum and supports the removal of blackheads. In a 2012 clinical study, clay and jojoba oil masks reduced the number of papules, pimples, and blackheads in people with mild acne. There's no evidence, however, that massaging with jojoba oil dissolves milia . Milia are hard keratin cysts that require exfoliation or removal by a specialist; there's no research to prove jojoba oil "dissolves" them. Some guides say a mixture of tea tree oil and jojoba oil can soothe inflammation around milia, but this is only a home remedy and requires caution. In practice, dermatologists recommend professional treatments (extraction, chemical peels, laser) for persistent milia. .

Makeup removal and skin cleansing

Dermatologists from the Cleveland Clinic emphasize that jojoba wax is a mixture of short- and long-chain fatty acids that dissolve oily impurities and remove makeup without irritating the skin. This allows you to prepare a homemade, two-phase fluid by combining water and oil (1:1) and use it to remove makeup. In practice, this oil also works well as a facial massage oil and a carrier for essential oils. Experts recommend applying it in the evening as the final layer of skincare to limit water loss from the epidermis. .

Hair and scalp care

The long chain fatty acids in jojoba oil retain moisture in the hair, making it look thicker and less brittle. Dermatologist Alok Vij recommends applying pure jojoba wax directly to the ends of your hair as a leave-in conditioner, avoiding contact with the scalp (excess oil can promote bacterial growth). Jojoba is rich in zinc and copper, which are needed for proper hair growth. The medical literature has not conclusively proven that jojoba oil "removes excess sebum from hair follicles," but by mimicking human sebum, it may regulate its production in the skin. .

How to choose the right jojoba oil

Not all oils are created equal. The eco-cosmetics portal emphasizes that you should choose organic, cold-pressed, and unrefined oils for skincare, as the gentle pressing process preserves fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants. It's worth making sure the product is certified organic and free of solvent residues. AromaPremium oil meets these criteria (cold-pressed, unrefined, and organic), as discussed in the previous article.

Does almond oil clog pores?

A popular myth says that pure almond oil should be avoided for makeup removal because it "clogs pores." In vivo studies show that the application of plant oils (jojoba, almond oil, avocado) causes only moderate swelling of the stratum corneum (10-20%) and mild semi-occlusion ; petrolatum provides significantly stronger occlusion. Dermocosmetic sources classify almond oil as non‑comedogenic , meaning it does not clog pores. ; it is therefore safe for most skin types When deciding which oil is best for makeup removal, individual preferences and skin tolerance are more important.

Jojoba oil is a versatile cosmetic ingredient: it helps remove blackheads and soothe acne. , effectively dissolves makeup and can be used as a hair conditioner However, there is no clinical evidence that it dissolves milia. When choosing an oil, it's best to choose organic, cold-pressed, and unrefined products. Almond oil is neither strongly occlusive nor comedogenic. , so it can be an alternative to makeup removal for people who tolerate it.

Summary

Laboratory and preclinical studies show that liquid jojoba wax can support wound healing by accelerating skin cell migration, stimulating collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and having anti-inflammatory effects. These results are promising, but clinical trials confirming its effectiveness in humans are still lacking. AromaPremium jojoba oil is a high-quality product, with a composition similar to the wax used in the studies. It can therefore be used as a skincare product to support skin regeneration, but should not be considered a medical device for wound healing . In the case of serious wounds, infections, or skin conditions, consultation with a physician is necessary.

Bibliography

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   Topical application of jojoba wax enhances collagen synthesis and hyaluronic acid production in an ex vivo human skin model.
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