What happens to essential oil after applying it to the skin? The route to the blood and brain
When applied to the skin, essential oil penetrates the stratum corneum, and a small portion (estimated at about 10%) enters the bloodstream. In a 1992 study by Jäger and colleagues, after a massage with 2% lavender oil, the first traces of its main components (linalool and linalyl acetate) were detected in the blood within 5 minutes. Peak plasma concentration occurred approximately 20 minutes after application, and after 90 minutes, most of the substance was eliminated from the body. A separate, much faster route to the brain is by inhaling the oil, where molecules can reach the brain directly through the nose, almost completely bypassing the blood-brain barrier.
In this article
- How essential oil penetrates the skin
- Jäger's study: what the measurements specifically showed
- How much essential oil enters the bloodstream
- Two paths to the brain: blood and nose
- Skin application vs. inhalation: which works faster
- What affects the absorption rate
- FAQ: frequently asked questions
How essential oil penetrates the skin
When applied to the skin, essential oil first encounters the stratum corneum of the epidermis. This is primarily a lipid barrier, and essential oils, as lipophilic compounds with small molecules, readily dissolve in it. From there, they penetrate further into the living layers of the epidermis and the blood vessels of the dermis.
The carrier in which the essential oil is diluted plays a significant role in this process. A systematic review of studies (Alhasso et al., 2022) indicates that free fatty acids contained in carrier oils "fluidize" the stratum corneum, temporarily increasing its permeability. Oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids, such as olive oil, almond oil, or grapeseed oil, show a stronger effect in this regard than oils predominantly composed of saturated acids. In practice, this means that the choice of carrier not only dilutes the oil to a safe concentration but also partly determines how quickly and deeply the oil will penetrate the skin.
Jäger's study: what the measurements specifically showed
One of the most cited studies in this field was conducted by Jäger, Buchbauer, Jirovetz, and Fritzer in 1992, with results published in the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. The researchers performed a massage using 1.5 grams of a mixture containing 2% lavender essential oil diluted in peanut oil, and then measured the concentration of the main components of lavender (linalool and linalyl acetate) in the participants' blood at specified time intervals.
| Time from end of massage | What was observed |
|---|---|
| ~5 minutes | First, trace amounts of linalool and linalyl acetate detectable in blood |
| ~20 minutes | Maximum plasma concentration, at around 100-120 ng/ml |
| ~90 minutes | Most of the substance eliminated from the body |
These results show that the effect of transdermal absorption appears relatively quickly (within minutes) but is short-lived, lasting from several tens of minutes to about an hour and a half. This is important practical information: a single application of essential oil to the skin does not provide a long-lasting, hours-long level of the substance in the body.
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How much essential oil enters the bloodstream
Robert Tisserand, one of the most recognized experts in essential oil safety, estimates that about 10% of the oil that has penetrated the skin barrier eventually enters the systemic circulation. This means that from each drop applied topically, only a small fraction reaches the subcutaneous tissues, and from there possibly the blood and further to other organs.
The rate and extent of this process depend on many variables: the chemical composition of the specific essential oil, its concentration in the preparation, the type of carrier used, the thickness of the skin at the application site, and the ambient temperature (studies, e.g., Schmitt et al., 2010, show differences in absorption depending on the application site on the body). This is why the same essential oil at the same concentration can act slightly differently depending on where and how it is applied.
Carriers are not inert – they are a mixture of triglycerides and free fatty acids (along with waxes, sterols, fat-soluble vitamins). They also have their own biological effects: unsaturated fatty acids present in carrier oils "fluidize" the stratum corneum and disperse lipids, temporarily lowering the skin barrier. This allows components (both lipophilic and partially hydrophilic) to penetrate deeper. In practice, this means that carriers enhance the penetration of essential oils rather than just diluting them. Additionally, carrier oils nourish the skin (providing vitamin E, antioxidants, etc.), preventing dehydration or irritation. Oils particularly rich in unsaturated acids (e.g., olive oil, almond oil, jojoba) show a stronger effect in supporting penetration than oils containing mainly saturated acids. Studies have also shown that adding essential oils to a carrier oil can increase the absorption of plant components or drugs through the skin, compared to forms without additional essential oils.
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Two paths to the brain: blood and nose
Essential oil molecules can reach the brain in two different ways. The first is the blood-borne route: after absorption through the skin and entering the circulation, a small fraction can cross the blood-brain barrier, especially if the molecules are very small and lipophilic. However, this is a multi-step and relatively slow process, with losses at each stage.
The second, much more direct way, is the olfactory route, described in the literature as the nose-to-brain pathway. A review by Lv and colleagues (2022) emphasizes that inhaled volatile aromatic compounds can reach the brain virtually bypassing the blood-brain barrier, through olfactory receptors in the nasal cavity that connect directly to the olfactory bulb and further to the cerebral cortex, thalamus, and limbic system. This explains why scents can evoke an almost immediate emotional response.
Skin application vs. inhalation: which works faster
The available data paint a clear picture: inhalation acts on the brain faster than skin application. When inhaled, chemical signals can reach the brain almost immediately, while the transdermal route first requires penetration through the stratum corneum, then entry into the bloodstream (a process that takes several minutes to reach detectable levels, as Jäger's study showed), and only then possibly crossing the blood-brain barrier.
However, this does not mean that skin application is "worse." These two methods have different applications: topical application, especially in the form of massage, combines effects on the skin (e.g., muscle relaxation, skin care) with slower but more prolonged systemic absorption. Inhalation is effective when a rapid emotional effect or support for concentration or relaxation is desired.
Recommended concentrations and dilution for skin
Go to the article: How to safely use essential oils on the skin: dilution, carrier choice, and risk zones
What affects the absorption rate
| Factor | Impact on absorption |
|---|---|
| Chemical composition of the essential oil | Smaller, more lipophilic molecules (e.g., monoterpenes) penetrate faster than larger compounds |
| Type of carrier | Oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids enhance penetration |
| Application site | Skin thickness varies across body parts, affecting penetration rate |
| Skin temperature | Higher temperature (e.g., after massage, in warmth) usually accelerates absorption |
| Skin condition | Damaged or irritated skin increases permeability, also raising the risk of adverse reactions |
FAQ: frequently asked questions about essential oil absorption
Does essential oil applied to the skin reach the entire body?
Partially, yes. According to Tisserand's estimates, about 10% of the essential oil that penetrates the skin reaches the systemic circulation, and from there it can affect various tissues. However, this is not the same level of exposure as with oral ingestion of essential oil, which should never be used without specialist supervision.
How long does an essential oil "work" after being applied to the skin?
Based on Jäger's study on lavender oil, a measurable effect in the blood appears after about 5 minutes, peaks after about 20 minutes, and largely disappears after about 90 minutes. This is an approximate course for one specific essential oil and may vary depending on the substance and application conditions.
Does inhaling essential oil work faster than applying it to the skin?
Yes, in the context of affecting the brain and mood. The olfactory route (nose-to-brain pathway) allows aromatic compounds to reach the brain almost immediately, while the transdermal route first requires penetration through the skin and passage through the blood, which takes more time.
Does every essential oil absorb at the same rate?
No. The absorption rate depends on the specific chemical composition of the essential oil, the size of its molecules, and its lipophilic nature. Studies on different substances, such as limonene (Api et al., 2013), show different absorption and elimination profiles depending on the compound.
Does the carrier (base oil) affect how much essential oil enters the bloodstream?
Yes. Carriers rich in unsaturated fatty acids can increase the permeability of the stratum corneum, which potentially also increases the amount of essential oil that reaches deeper into the skin and ultimately the circulation. This is another reason why the choice of base oil is not a secondary matter.
Does this scientific study mean I can safely use more essential oil to get a stronger effect?
No. The absorption data describe what happens with correctly diluted essential oil applied according to safe proportions. Increasing the concentration in the hope of a stronger effect is not supported by these studies and significantly increases the risk of irritation and sensitization, without a proportional increase in benefits.
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Browse the GC/MS collection →This article is for educational purposes and is based on scientific publications. It does not replace consultation with a doctor or certified aromatherapist.
Sources
- Alhasso B., Ghori M.U., Conway B.R. Systematic Review on the Effectiveness of Essential and Carrier Oils as Skin Penetration Enhancers in Pharmaceutical Formulations. Scientia Pharmaceutica. 2022;90(1):14.
- Jäger W., Buchbauer G., Jirovetz L., Fritzer M. Percutaneous absorption of lavender oil from a massage oil. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. 1992;43:49-54.
- Tisserand R., Young R. Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals. 2nd ed. Churchill Livingstone/Elsevier; 2014.
- Tisserand Institute. Robert Tisserand. Essential Oils & The Skin. Part 2 of 9 - Transdermal Absorption. 2014.
- Lv X.N., Liu Z.J., Zhang H.J., Tzeng C.M. Inhalation Aromatherapy via Brain-Targeted Nasal Delivery: Natural Volatiles or Essential Oils on Mood Disorders. Frontiers in Pharmacology. 2022.
- Cal K. How does the type of vehicle influence the in vitro skin absorption and elimination kinetics of terpenes? Archives of Dermatological Research. 2006;297:311-315.
- Schmitt S., Schäfer U.F., Döbler L. et al. Variation of in vitro human skin permeation of rose oil between different application sites. Forschende Komplementärmedizin. 2010;17:126-131.
- Api A.M., Ritacco G., Hawkins D.R. The fate of dermally applied [14C]-d-limonene in rats and humans. International Journal of Toxicology. 2013;32:130-135.
- Buckle J. Clinical Aromatherapy: Essential Oils in Healthcare. 3rd ed. Churchill Livingstone/Elsevier; 2014.
- Lis-Balchin M. Aromatherapy Science: A Guide for Healthcare Professionals. Pharmaceutical Press; 2006.
