Frankincense Facial Oil: What We Really Know (and Don't), Based on Research

August 31, 2025

Frankincense essential oil (Boswellia spp.) is primarily a mixture of volatile monoterpenes (most commonly α-pinene, limonene) with anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial potential confirmed in vitro and in animal models. In facial cosmetics, low concentrations of 0.3-1.0% in a well-selected carrier (e.g., jojoba) are best. The famous boswellic acids—responsible for a range of dermatological effects—are not found in the essential oil, but in the extracts/resin. Safety? No phototoxicity; the risk of allergy increases with oxidized oils—fresh, well-stored raw materials and reasonable dilution are key.

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1) What is frankincense oil?

"Boswellia" refers to several species of the genus Boswellia (including B. carterii / sacra , B. serrata , B. frereana ). The oil distilled from the resin is a volatile fraction - it is dominated by monoterpenes (often α-pinene 2-65% depending on the batch), limonene, myrcene, etc. This compositional variability explains why batches from different manufacturers can "behave" slightly differently in formulations.

Myth vs. Fact: Boswellic acids (BAs) , which are claimed to have anti-inflammatory/anti-cancer effects in dermatology, are not essential oil components —they are non-volatile molecules present in the resin/extracts. This is an important distinction for expectations of oil- based facial care. (The Tisserand Institute has compiled analytical evidence for this.)

2) What does the literature say about facial skin?

a) Anti-inflammatory and anti-aging

In in vivo models (UVB-induced photoaging in rodents) , B. papyrifera oil reduces markers of inflammation and damage, and in the encapsulated version (SLN) the effect was stronger - this is an interesting direction for cosmetology, although there is not yet clinical evidence of wrinkles in humans.
For comparison, a cream with 0.5% boswellic acid (the extract, not the oil) improved selected parameters (texture, fine lines, echogenicity) in a randomized, double-blind, split-face study of women with photoaging. This hints at where the marketing promises come from, but again: this refers to the extract .

b) Antimicrobial (acne, yeast)

B. sacra oils demonstrate activity against skin bacteria and fungi in vitro , although potency varies by batch and composition —in a study of 20 commercial samples, results varied significantly. This supports the selection of raw materials with GC/MS reports and consistent quality.

Frankincense sacra essential oil

Other studies confirm antibacterial potential (various for S. aureus , P. acnes , Malassezia ), but this does not replace antibiotics; clinical data in acne involving the oil itself are still lacking.

c) Wound/scar healing

Contemporary data for oil are mainly animal models and new carriers (e.g. films/nanocarriers) - promising, but require translation into clinical trials on facial skin.

Conclusion: For facial care, we have solid preclinical evidence (inflammation, antioxidants, skin microbiome) and indirect data from Boswellia extracts in humans. Therefore, we recommend reasonable, low concentrations, tolerability assessment, and combination with carriers with documented effects on the skin matrix.

3) Safety and dilutions - the voice of the authorities

Robert Tisserand (along with Rodney Young) and the Tisserand Institute recommend a range of ~0.5-1.2% for facial cosmetics (even 0.2-1.0% for reactive skin). This is not "dogma," but a wisely defined range that balances effectiveness and the risk of hypersensitivity.

Phototoxicity: none.
Allergies: mainly in the context of oxidized monoterpenes (e.g., α-pinene, limonene). Freshness, an antioxidant in the formulation, and cool, dark storage are real preventative measures. (RIFM classifies α-pinene as a potential allergen—concentration/exposure is key.)
Fragrance allergens (EU): from 2023, an extended list (Reg. 2023/1545), and from July 31, 2026, some ingredients (e.g., limonene, linalool) will have to be declared on the label if they exceed thresholds. This applies to cosmetics containing frankincense oil.

Tisserand's rule: dilute conservatively, patch test 24-48 hours, avoid applying around the eyes or on mucous membranes; do not use undiluted. These are simple habits that can significantly reduce risk.

4) The medium matters: jojoba - ex vivo data

If you're thinking about anti-aging skincare, consider jojoba wax/oil as a base: in an ex vivo model (human skin), jojoba application increased the synthesis of pro-collagen III and hyaluronic acid and reduced IL-6/IL-8/TNF-α by about 30% . It's the perfect "partner" for delicate concentrations of frankincense in facial products.

Jojoba base vegetable oil, cold-pressed, unrefined (Simmondsia Chinensis), organic

5) How to choose a species?

B. carterii / sacra - often high α-pinene content; fresh, balsamic-resinous profile.
B. serrata - more woody notes, sometimes slightly "dryer" in aroma.
Composition varies significantly – in a comparison of 20+ commercial samples, differences in key ingredients were multiples of a factor. Ask for a GC/MS for a specific batch and avoid heavily oxidized oils.

Frankincense (Boswellia carterii) Essential Oil

6) "Pro" Face Formulations (Safe Ranges)

Drops: This is only an approximation (approx. 20 drops = 1 ml ). Below in grams.

1. Oil Serum 0.6% "Barrier & Calm"

29.82 g jojoba oil + 0.18 g frankincense oil ( B. carterii/sacra ) = 30 g, 0.6%
Optionally recommended (with antioxidant): 29.73 g Jojoba + 0.18 g Frankincense + 0.09 g Mixed Tocopherols (vit. E) (= 0.3%)
Application: after toner/hydrolate/essence (slightly damp skin), apply 2-3 drops of the ready serum (i.e.: jojoba + frankincense + optionally vitamin E) to the face, massage in gently.

2. Base cream + booster 0.5%

To 50 g of the ready-made cream (unscented), add 0.25 g of frankincense oil; mix cold.
For reactive leather, spot test for 72 hours.

3. Roll-on spot 1.0% (short term)

9.90 g jojoba + 0.10 g oil = 10 g, 1.0%
Use locally on blemishes for 3-5 days, not as a full-face product.

The ranges are based on the Tisserand Institute's recommendations for facial cosmetics.

7) What to combine with (and what to avoid)

Yes: niacinamide, panthenol, squalane, ceramides, mild humectants - support the barrier and comfort.
Caution: retinoids/acids - split applications (e.g. retinoid in the evening, frankincense in the morning) and stick to ≤1% in the serum.
Don't: apply oils directly to active skin, not to mention inflamed skin, and don't dilute it quickly "in your hand".

8) Quality and sustainable sourcing

Demand for Boswellia is growing, and some populations are under pressure (overharvesting, grazing, fires). Reports for CITES and conservation efforts have been pointing out the risk to selected species for years; B. sacra is listed as Near Threatened on the IUCN Red List (data requires updating). Buy from suppliers with supply chain controls and good harvesting practices. Click

9) Frequently asked questions

Does frankincense oil “remove wrinkles”?
There are no well-designed clinical studies using the oil alone for facial wrinkles. The clinical data focuses on boswellic acids (extract), not the volatile fraction. The oil may support comfort, inflammation balance, and the microbiome—these are valuable but subtle effects.

Is it photosensitizing?
No, these aren't cold-pressed citrus fruits. However, be aware of oxidation and possible sensitization in older batches.

What concentration for face?
Start with 0.3-0.6%, with excellent tolerance, a maximum of 1.0-1.2% more is not better – facial skin likes micro-doses.

Is it suitable for acne-prone skin?
It can support care ( in vitro activity against selected microorganisms), but it is an addition to the standard routine, not a medicine.

Bibliography

Tisserand Institute: Does frankincense oil contain boswellic acids? - Evidence that it does not (about the essential oil). Tisserand Institute
Tisserand Institute: Dilution ranges for the face 0.5-1.2% (0.2-1.0% for reactive skin). Tisserand Institute
RIFM (α-pinene monograph): classification as a potential sensitizer, freshness/oxidation significance. fragrancematerialsafetyresource.elsevier.com
MDPI / Molecules 2022: 20 Commercial Oils - Wide Variation in Composition and Antibacterial Activity. MDPI
Frontiers in Pharmacology 2024 (jojoba ex vivo ): pro-collagen III and HA, IL-6/IL-8/TNF-α ≈30%. PubMed
EU 2023/1545: Expanded list of fragrance allergens - labeling implications. EUR-Lex
In vivo (UVB, rodents): photoprotective potential of B. papyrifera oil; direction for future formulations. PMC
Clinic (extract, not oil): 0.5% BA in split-face - improvement of photoaging features (indirect evidence). PubMed