Therapeutic properties of jojoba wax (Simmondsia chinensis L.) in an ex‑vivo study on human skin

Jojoba wax, a liquid wax (not an oil), is a cosmetic ingredient derived from the seeds of Simmondsia chinensis . This study evaluated its effects on ex vivo human skin samples under laboratory conditions simulating inflammatory and regenerative processes. The primary goal was to determine whether jojoba wax has scientifically proven skin barrier, regenerative, and anti-inflammatory properties.

This is one of the first studies that:

1. documents the molecular mechanisms of the action of jojoba wax on human skin,
2. indicates the possibility of using it as a plant-based alternative to corticosteroids , in products for atopic, irritated or rosacea-prone skin,
3. justifies the use of jojoba in "medical" class dermocosmetics (cosmeceuticals).

Main results of the study

• Reduction of skin inflammation
  Jojoba waxes applied topically in a human skin culture model reduced the secretion of proinflammatory cytokines IL-6, IL-8 and TNF-α by approximately 30% compared to untreated skin.
• Effect comparable to dexamethasone
  The reduction in inflammation was observed to be similar to that of dexamethasone (a synthetic glucocorticosteroid), demonstrating a potent immunomodulatory effect without the side effects typical of steroids, especially when the wax was used in an emulsion that improved its bioavailability.
• Stimulation of the synthesis of collagen III and hyaluronic acid
  The treatment increased mRNA and protein levels of procollagen III and the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, responsible for hydration and the skin's hydrophilic barrier. Simultaneously, an increase in TGF-β1 expression was observed, indicating stimulation of skin regeneration.
• Safety and tolerance
  Jojoba waxes showed no toxicity and were safe to use in the ex‑vivo model, maintaining good skin vitality throughout the study.

Jojoba wax exhibits powerful, synergistic anti-inflammatory, regenerative, and barrier-supporting properties. It can be an effective alternative or complement to dermatological therapies, especially for sensitive and dry skin.

Pure jojoba wax is actually a liquid wax, not a vegetable fat in the traditional sense. Its unique chemical structure prevents it from becoming rancid, stabilizes other ingredients, and mimics human sebum .

AUTHORS' CONCLUSIONS

1. Jojoba wax:

• has anti-inflammatory and regenerative effects ,
• increases the synthesis of pro-collagen III and hyaluronic acid ,
• is safe for topical use,
• can be an active ingredient of dermocosmetics , not just a base additive.

2. Addition of emulsifier (emulsion):

• improves bioavailability and doubles the effectiveness of anti-inflammatory action.

3. Ex vivo study:

• is an effective alternative research model instead of animal testing.

Interpretation of results

• Anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory effects
• The observed reduction of IL-6, IL-8 and TNF-α suggests the potential of jojoba wax in alleviating inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis or allergic irritations - this means an effect similar to the action of corticosteroids, but of plant origin.
• Skin renewal and support of the protective barrier
• Stimulation of procollagen III and hyaluronic acid synthesis, driven by increased TGF-β1, demonstrates the ability to regenerate the skin's intercellular matrix - which may support elasticity, hydration and repair after dermatological procedures or in inflammatory skin diseases.

Application in cosmetology and dermatology practice

• dry, sensitive skin, with atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, rosacea,
• anti-aging and regenerating cosmetics, after aesthetic medicine treatments,
• natural alternatives to steroids in skin care.

Safety of use

• The preparations did not show any toxicity (MTT test).
• No morphological changes were observed in the epidermis.
• The preparations (natural and emulsion) were safe and well tolerated by human skin.

Summary

Area of ​​operation	Result
Reduction of inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, IL-8, TNF-α)	~30% drop
Strengthening the synthesis of ECM (collagen III, HA)	Significant growth
Increase in TGF-β1	Increased level
Security	No ex‑vivo toxicity

An ex vivo study showed a stronger anti-inflammatory and regenerative effect of jojoba wax when it was emulsified (i.e. dispersed in water using an emulsifier).

Pure, cold-pressed jojoba oil - non-emulsified, so:

• has a protective and slightly anti-inflammatory effect,
• but it remains mainly on the skin surface, limiting penetration.

Jojoba wax from the AromaPremium.eu store is a very pure, stable and high-quality lipid base , similar to human sebum - ideal for emulsions.

How to choose an emulsifier for our jojoba wax?

An emulsion with jojoba wax and a gentle emulsifier (e.g., Olivem 1000 or vegetable lecithin) increases the bioavailability of active ingredients and doubles the effectiveness of the anti-inflammatory effect. This allows the jojoba wax, which naturally sits on the skin's surface, to better penetrate the upper layers, reaching the areas where inflammation develops.

To increase the effectiveness of the treatment, it is worth using a simple 2-step care ritual:

1. Moisturizing toner or hydrolate (e.g. chamomile, lavender, immortelle):
- prepares the skin, slightly acidifies it and supports the absorption of lipids.
- can be patted into the skin or sprayed with a fine mist.

2. Application of jojoba emulsion :

Apply a portion of the emulsion containing:
- jojoba wax (5-10%)
- plant emulsifier (e.g. Olivem 1000 3-5%)
- optional: borage oil, vitamin E, allantoin

Thanks to this formulation:

• active jojoba wax works faster and deeper,
• reduction of proinflammatory cytokines (IL-6, IL-8, TNF-α) occurs within 48 hours (according to the study),
• the skin gains more hydration, elasticity and protection.

If you do not make an emulsion, you can use jojoba in the form of a two-phase ritual (it creates a protective film):

1. Tonic/hydrolate - spray the skin or pat in the hydrolate (chamomile, neroli, immortelle).

2. Apply 2–3 drops of jojoba to the still damp skin - this will:

• absorbs better,
• works deeper,
• reduces irritation and exfoliation (e.g. after steroids).

Source: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10855461/ The study is from 2023.