How to Compose Fragrances? Secrets of Masterful Essential Oil Blends by Lavabre

Creating essential oil blends is like composing a symphony – it requires imagination, knowledge, and… notes. And not just the scents! Marcel Lavabre, one of the pioneers of aromatherapy in France, compares the process of composing to organizing a social event. Imagine a party – will you invite only celebrities, or will you also provide the right setting, hosts, and perhaps even discreet security guards? Scent works in exactly the same way.

1. Fragrance notes and their temperament

Lavabre divides fragrances not only into top, heart, and base notes, but also into aromatic types—e.g., floral, fruity, green, balsamic, woody, earthy, and sweet . Each type has different properties and combines with different fragrance groups.

Floral note

It's the star of the ball – expensive, glamorous, but... capricious. It pairs beautifully with the notes:

• fruity, woody, sweet, vanilla, musky
• but it doesn't compare well with balsamic and aniseed ones

Oils: rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang, tuberose, champaca, geranium, palmarosa, lavender, bergamot, petitgrain.

Fruity note

Nice, easy, pleasant. It goes with almost everything, although it doesn't like the company of heavy, balsamic tones.

Oils: orange, grapefruit, bergamot, lime, champaca flowers (apricot note), chamomile (apple note), tangerine.

Green and herbal note

Green – fresh, combines with almost any oil, especially in small quantities (1–10%).
Herbal – works well with balsamic and woody scents, but requires some sensitivity with florals.

Oils: peppermint, lemon balm, lemon verbena, basil, rosemary, tarragon, fennel.

Balsamic note

The essence of therapeutics – "makes every blend smell like medicine." But be warned – it destroys flowers and doesn't mix well with fruit.
It combines best with herbal and woody scents.

Oils: benzoin, Peruvian balsam, elemi, myrrh, copaiba.

Woody note

It's a stable, deep base – a perfect backdrop for complex compositions. It adds warmth and elegance.
Importantly, Lavabre also includes incense (frankincense) here , contrary to many perfume classifications.

Oils: frankincense, sandalwood, cedar, cypress, juniper.

2. Synergy, or how not to spoil the aroma party

Lavabre warns: "Don't try to treat your lungs and nerves with the same blend." A fragrance can't do everything at once. Start with your goal – do you want it to be antibacterial, relaxing, or perhaps aphrodisiac? Only then choose the oils, not the other way around.

Example:

• Physical problems? Smell is secondary. What matters is effectiveness – for example, antiseptic, analgesic, or anti-inflammatory mixtures (e.g., eucalyptus, thyme, sage).
• Emotional challenges? Scent plays a huge role here. It's worth reaching for balancing notes of floral, woody, and sweet.

3. Practical proportions and aromatic label

• “Star” oils (rose, jasmine, champaca) – max. 5%, so that they do not dominate the entire composition.
• “Bodyguard” oils (cloves, savory, balsamic oils) – use as if they were door guards: no more than 5%.
• Base (woody) – 5–20%, provide durability and depth.
• Head (citrus, mint) – 5–10%, evaporates quickly but creates the first impression.

Finally, Lavabre's advice for fragrance creators:

“Combine the mixture so that it attacks the ailment from multiple angles, treating – if possible – both the cause and the symptoms.”

Aromatherapy is art and science in one. A pinch of imagination, a touch of chemistry, a pinch of mindfulness, and... harmony is ready.

Source: Marcel Lavabre, Essential Oils in Aromatherapy, Chapter 10: "The Art and Skill of Creating Aromatic Compositions".