How to Spot Fake Essential Oils? A Comprehensive Guide for Conscious Users

How to spot a fake essential oil? 7 simple tricks.

1. What is a true essential oil?

A true essential oil is a highly concentrated plant extract, most often obtained through steam distillation or cold pressing. It contains hundreds of naturally occurring chemical compounds (monoterpenes, alcohols, esters, phenols) that together create a synergistic and therapeutic whole. It's not just a scent—it's a complex substance that affects the body, mind, and nervous system.

2. Synthetic oils – what's really behind the pretty label?

Synthetic oils are fragrance compositions created in laboratories. They often contain:

• Synthetic flavorings (e.g., linalool, limonene, citronellol produced from petrochemicals or corn fermentation),
• Solvents (e.g. DPG – dipropylene glycol, benzyl alcohol – often used as a diluent or fragrance carrier; it also occurs naturally in some oils, but the synthetic equivalent is commonly added to cheaper blends),
• Preservatives and stabilizers (BHT, phthalates),
• Dyes ,
• Substances considered allergenic .

Although they may smell similar to natural ones, they have no therapeutic properties.

Before we go any further, what is linalool ? It's a substance with a delicate, floral scent—responsible for the aroma of lavender, coriander, and rosewood. Linalool imparts fragrance to cosmetics, laundry products, candles, fabric softeners, and even food. It's ubiquitous in the perfume and food industries. Except… it doesn't always come from a plant.

3. "Natural origin" – what does that really mean?

This phrase, while sounding innocent and friendly, is a semantic trick . "Natural origin" doesn't mean that the ingredient comes from a plant. It only means that its original source occurs in nature.

If you see "linalool – naturally derived" on a label, ask: from what nature? Because between a lavender field and a corn fermenter, the difference is... fragrantly fundamental.

For example, linalool can be extracted from lavender, but it can also be produced by modified yeast from corn glucose, as described in patent US10870866B2. It's chemically the same molecule, but without the plant essence, without synergism, and often without the same bioactivity.

• Research published in Frontiers in Bioengineering and Biotechnology (2020) describes how linalool was metabolically engineered from corn glucose fermentation using E. coli strains, with industrial yields—an alternative to plant extraction, but not a substitute in the context of aromatherapy.
• A similar approach is also used in the production of geraniol and menthol , where biosynthetic pathways inspired by nature are transferred to single-celled organisms—and the final product, although structurally identical, does not contain the “plant intelligence,” as aromatherapists say.
• Additionally, as noted by Tisserand & Young (2014), chemical isolates – even if derived from biotechnology – do not exhibit the synergy typical of complex oils, which reduces their therapeutic efficacy.

What does patent US10870866B2 say?

This patent describes a biotechnological method for producing linalool using modified microorganisms (e.g., strains of E. coli or Saccharomyces cerevisiae ) equipped with the appropriate enzymes to convert precursors (e.g., glucose) into linalool. This means we have linalool of "natural origin," but not from a plant, but from a fermenter. The raw material? Corn. The product? A chemical molecule identical to that found in lavender.

Ecological and industrial compromise?

Biotechnological production:

• can be more environmentally sustainable (no cultivation, less water and pesticide use),
• but it is not consistent with the aromatherapy approach to the full essence of the plant.

This is a great solution for the perfume industry and household chemicals, but not for people looking for the therapeutic power of nature.

The perfume industry is impossible to ignore—I've written about this extensively in another article. Are you trying to conceive and your last resort is IVF? And do you know what holistic fertility clinics recommend? Avoiding all synthetic perfumes and detergents. Why? The answer is obvious: synthetic fragrances can disrupt hormonal balance, affect fertility, and burden the body with endocrine-active compounds.

The researcher's conclusions:

1. Linalool may be natural, but not plant-based.

Patents like US10870866B2 prove that “natural origin” is now mostly a matter of marketing and semantics:

• from a biological point of view – linalool obtained from fermentation may be chemically identical (so-called nature-identical ),
• from an aromatherapy product – it may not have the same therapeutic power because it is not accompanied by other molecules that create the full spectrum of the oil’s action (synergy).

2. For aromatherapy – it is not only the molecule that matters, but also the context.

Lavender linalool is found in combination with esters, alcohols, and sesquiterpenes, which together produce relaxing, antidepressant, and anti-anxiety effects. Pure, isolated linalool from a bioreactor? It's more of a detergent fragrance than a nervous system support.

3. Etiquette: the front line in the fight for quality

An authentic essential oil should have:

• Latin name of the plant (e.g. Lavandula angustifolia ),
• Method of extraction (e.g. steam distilled),
• The part of the plant from which it was obtained (e.g. flowers, leaves, bark),
• Country of origin,
• Batch number and expiration date,
• Labels like "100% pure essential oil," "therapeutic grade," and "organic certified" are often included in the product's trade name, which can be misleading. Such terms are not regulated by law and can be used even by manufacturers offering synthetic blends or low-quality oils. Therefore, it's not enough to rely on the name alone—it's worth carefully reading the product data sheet or technical documentation to ensure that these claims represent real quality, confirmed by GC/MS analysis and a transparent composition.

Warning signals:

• No Latin name,
• Descriptions such as "fragrance oil", "aromatherapy oil",
• The price is suspiciously low (e.g. "rose, lavender, lemon balm, sandalwood oil" for PLN 10),
• A label full of marketing language but without specifics.

4. Composition: What They Don't Say Directly

If the label says, "Contains other ingredients of natural origin," it's likely a way to hide synthetic or semi-synthetic additives. We don't know:

• What are these ingredients,
• What is their source,
• Are they present for fragrance or preservative purposes?

For therapeutic classes – although these terms are not regulated – each ingredient should be disclosed and confirmed by GC/MS analysis.

5. GC/MS – the only irrefutable proof, although not required, is applicable in the face of lack of regulation and abuse.

GC/MS (gas chromatography-mass spectrometry) analysis allows:

• Identify precisely the chemical compounds present in the oil,
• Detect synthetic admixtures,
• Determine purity and authenticity.

If a manufacturer doesn't share GC/MS results, consider this a lack of transparency. Therapeutic-grade brands have reports publicly available or upon request.

6. Lack of specific names = warning signal

Such provisions are intentionally vague in order to:

• avoid declaring chemical ingredients that sound “bad” (e.g. benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol),
• hide additives such as: solvents, fragrance stabilizers, carriers, preservatives (e.g. DPG – dipropylene glycol),
• protect yourself in marketing: "natural origin" does not raise concerns, "residues from the fermentation of GMO corn" – a little more so.

7. Does this mean the oil is bad?

Not always. But:

• this is not a therapeutic grade product,
• most likely we are dealing with a fragrance composition and not a full essential oil,
• the product may be diluted or contain isolates.

Reflection:

If an oil costs less than a latte, don't expect it to do more for your health than coffee does for sleep.

Why am I writing about this?

From my own perspective—from when I was just starting my oil journey. Back then, I reached for cheaper products because, since the label said "essential oil, natural," it didn't occur to me that it might just be an illusion. I remember the embarrassment when I first smelled lavender and chamomile—and asked myself, "Is that what they're supposed to smell like?" Over time, I fell for it more than once, before I started really reading and analyzing.

Unfortunately, most reliable sources are available in English, often in closed groups where users share research but are prohibited from publishing it publicly. I myself came across a study by a reputable institution that was removed from the internet following a lawsuit from a company.

https://patents.google.com/patent/US10870866B2/en